As racing authorities look to greener pastures – in the sustainability sense – and encourage rentals and vintage at the track, is fashion retail at risk of being left at the starting post?

No, says Victoria Racing Club chief executive Kylie Rogers, who is marking her first Melbourne Cup Carnival in the role by wearing a roster of Australian designers, including Effie Kats, Zimmermann and Rachel Gilbert.

“As a woman, I always want to support other females who are doing what they can to support our industry,” she says.

Following the COVID-interrupted years of 2020 and 2021, crowds have trickled back to racing. But fashion’s fortunes have been slower to rebound. In 2023, Melbourne Cup Carnival attendees spent $49 million on retail purchases, including fashion and grooming, compared to $52 million in 2022, both of which lag way behind the $63 million spent in 2018.

Rogers, who is also a dedicated outfit renter, is confident retail spending linked to the Melbourne Cup is on a positive trajectory.

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“Racing is the only sport with its own fashion category,” Rogers said at Wednesday’s launch of the 2024 Fashions on the Field competition, whose overall winners will be crowned on Oaks Day and share in $370,000 in prizes.

She says the races provided an economic boost to the local fashion industry “in a way no other major event does”.

Calibre head of brand and business development Edin Zecevic says the races offer a prime time to attract new customers to the brand. “Racing time is important for any brand that stocks tailoring ... [at other times of year] we lean more into the [more casual] elements, but during this time everything is merchandised for carnival, to encourage our customers to buy the full head-to-toe outfits,” he says.