Posted: 2022-10-21 21:19:38

Seemingly abandoned during the day, the damaged factory building in eastern Ukraine comes to life at night, when the smell of fresh bread emanates from its broken windows.

It's one of two, large-scale bakeries left in operation in the Ukrainian-held part of the Donetsk region, most of which is under Russian occupation. The others had to close because they were damaged by fighting or because their electricity and gas were cut.

A man carrying two buckets. Image only shows him from the waist down.
A worker carries coal at a bakery in Kostiantynivka, one of only two large-scale bakeries left in operation in the Ukrainian-held part of Donetsk.(AP Photo: David Goldman)
A man wearing a striped shirt
Kostya is one of three men working a 12-hour night shift at the bakery.(AP Photo: David Goldman)
A man puts coal into a boiler oven
Nikita, another worker, loads coal into a boiler at the bakery. (AP Photo: David Goldman)
A pile of burning coal
The bakery tried six types of coal before they found the right type with a high-heat output. (AP Photo: David Goldman )

The bakery in Kostiantynivka adjusted its working hours according to the rhythm of the war.

Employees at the factory come to work at 7pm to start kneading the dough.

By dawn, truck drivers arrive to pick up fresh loaves of bread for delivery to towns and villages where the grocery stores are typically open only in the morning and when, on most days, there is a lull in Russian shelling.

"We bake more bread at night so we can distribute it to stores in the morning," says bakery director Oleksandr Milov.

The factory bakes about seven tonnes of bread daily, or about 17,500 loaves.

Half of it goes to the Ukrainian military.

Olha Zhovtonozhyk, a woman in her 30s, picks up the round loaves from the conveyor belt and quickly puts them into baking forms. She takes her job very seriously.

"The Ukrainian armed forces are our heroes now, but our job is also important for the life of our country, in martial times," Ms Zhovtonozhyk says.

Another employee, Olena Nahorna, 48, agrees.

"We are not afraid. We bake bread, because the people, our military, our defenders, need bread," Ms Nahorna says with a smile, moving the dough to the oven.

A man shoveling coal
One advantage with the coal system is that the plant will not need additional heating in winter. (AP Photo: David Goldman)
A truck on a street in the light of dawn
The bakery adjusted its working hours according to the rhythm of the war. (AP Photo: David Goldman)
A woman standing between rows of bread
Svitlana Labutcheva cuts labels by hand for packaging loaves of bread at the bakery. (AP Photo: David Goldman)
A woman's hair tied in a bun inside a hair net
Despite the war, good-hygiene practices have been maintained. (AP Photo: David Goldman)
A woman tossing a ball of dough into a basket on a shelve with several baskets on it
Valentina, an employee who works at night, tosses a ball of dough into a basket before it's baked at the bakery.(AP Photo: David Goldman)

Another plant in Druzhkivka is still operational, producing rolls, loaves and cookies.

However, the bakeries in Kostiantynivka and Druzhkivka don't make enough bread for the estimated 300,000 people who remain in the Ukrainian-controlled part of the Donetsk region.

In the south of the region, entrepreneurs bring in bread from the neighbouring Dnipropetrovsk and Zaporizhzhia regions, and some supermarkets have small bakeries.

The Kostiantynivka bakery has remained open, despite many challenges. In April it lost its gas supply, but the ovens were reconfigured to run on coal — a system that hadn't been used at this plant since World War II. The coal-fired boiler is operated by three men.

"It's such a colossal job. The guys work 12 hours a day," Mr Milov says.

He tried six types of coal before he found the right type with a high-heat output. One advantage with the coal system is that the plant won't need additional heating in winter. There will be no central heating in the region this winter because of the lack of gas.

A woman pulls a cart while another loads bread onto shelves
Workers shuffle around carts as loaves of bread are packaged for delivery.(AP Photo: David Goldman)
A car windshield with russian writing on it, a man carrying bread in the background
A sign reading "bread" in Russian is taped to a windshield of a delivery truck in the hope it gives the driver some level of protection from military operations in the area. (AP Photo: David Goldman)
Rows of bread in the back of a car with a man in the background
The bakery has 20 drivers deliver bread daily, not only to cities, but also to half-empty, frontline villages.(AP Photo: David Goldman)

The bakery faced its next problem in June, when Russia occupied the town of Lyman in the north of the region, where the mill that supplied flour to the Kostiantynivka bakery was located.

Mr Milov had to buy flour from a supplier in the Zaporizhzhia region, which is 150 kilometres from Kostiantynivka.

The added transportation costs increased the price of bread. So has the inflation rate, which is about 20 per cent in Ukraine.

"People's income has decreased, and people are just buying cheaper products at the moment," Mr Milov says.

His bakers have even had to change the recipe of their bread to keep the price affordable as long as possible.

Another concern is a shortage of grain. In 2021, the harvest in Ukraine exceeded 100 million tonnes of grain. The new harvest, according to preliminary estimates of the Ministry of Agriculture Policy, is 65-67 million tonnes.

Since Russia has attacked not only fields, but also grain storages, some farmers are exporting grain for storage abroad.

The bakery in Kostiantynivka has 20 drivers delivering bread daily, not only to cities, but also to half-empty, frontline villages.

A man carrying a tray of bread behind a van with a woman in the front passenger seat
Vasyl Moiseienko, a pensioner, delivers bread from his car to a store near the front line as his wife, Anna Kolesnyk, waits in the passenger seat.(AP Photo: David Goldman)
An in focus crack in a windshield with a woman out of focus in the background
A crack in the windshield from a piece of shrapnel after a recent rocket attack, since then, Kolesnyk accompanies her husband to frontline villages.(AP Photo: David Goldman)

One of them, Vasyl Moiseienko, a retiree, arrives in his car at the factory at 6am and fills it up with still-hot loaves. He shows the crack in the windshield that a piece of shrapnel left a few weeks ago during a bread delivery run.

"Who else will go? I'm old, so I could drive," Mr Moiseienko said.

He drives along bad roads to the village of Dyliivka, 15 kilometres from the frontline. The driver quickly unloads the bread and drives on to another town on the frontline.

a bread delivery truck driving on a dirt road
A bread delivery truck swerves through barricades of dirt along a rural road while heading to villages near the frontline.(AP Photo: David Goldman)
A woman at a register with three people in line at a shop
Residents line up to buy bread after it was delivered to a store near the frontline in Dyliivka.(AP Photo: David Goldman)
A man watches another counting loaves of bread
Vasyl Moiseienko, a pensioner, left, watches as a shopkeeper counts the bread loaves he delivered in Dyliivka.(AP Photo: David Goldman)
A woman walking by a brick building
An elderly resident arrives to buy bread from a shop before it opens in Ivanopillia.(AP Photo: David Goldman)

About 100 people live in Dyliivka, but the village looks empty.

Every 10 to 15 minutes the sound of artillery can be heard.

It's hard to find a mobile phone connection in the area, but the data network functions.

The saleswoman at the local store writes in the village's Viber chat that bread has been brought. Within 15 minutes, the store fills up with people.

Liubov Lytvynova, 76, takes several loaves of bread. She says she dries some of it to make breadcrumbs which she keeps in her cellar. She puts one loaf in the freezer to keep it longer.

"We only live in fear. And, if they don't deliver bread, what will we do?" Ms Lytvynova said.

A man loading a tray of bread into a truck
Serhii Holoborodko delivers bread to a shop in Pleshchiivka.(AP Photo: David Goldman)
A woman holding a box while a man passes bread to another woman
A resident waits in the background to buy bread as shopkeepers receive their daily delivery from Serhii Holoborodko, left, in Scherbynivka.(AP Photo: David Goldman)
A woman walking down the street carrying a bag of bread
Halyna Lomakina returns to her home with loaves of bread she just bought from her local shop in Dyliivka.(AP Photo: David Goldman)

AP

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