WHAT do Mark Zuckerberg, Drew Barrymore, a classic folk song and a clutch of Hollywood blockbusters have in common?
The tiny island of Kauai, home to mist-covered mountains and pristine beaches — and the best kept secret in the Hawaiian archipelago.
With the majority of the island uninhabited and a law that forbids buildings higher than a coconut tree, Kauai is far less developed than Oahu (home to the brash charms of Honolulu), more relaxed than Maui, and its surf breaks and lush green landscape have proven to be extremely attractive to the rich and famous.
GETTING THERE, GETTING AROUND
I’ve decided on a holiday in Kauai after a recommendation from a friend of a friend. It’s that kind of place — a traveller’s paradise, a destination shared by whispers from those in the know.
It’s only a 25 minutes flight from Honolulu to Lihue, Kauai’s airport. With only one main road that runs along the coast, it might seem like a car isn’t necessary, but there’s a lot to see across the Kauai’s 1,430 square kilometres, so consider hiring a set of wheels and hit the highway for the most island’s charming North Shore.
The area is where Zuckerberg has snapped up a huge estate on what’s known as the Garden Island. Barrymore and a host of other stars including Pierce Brosnan, Ben Stiller, and Chuck Norris own property on Kauai’s North Shore too, a far-from-Hollywood-hide-out.
HANGING IN HANALEI
If you want to take in the best of Kauai, head to the North Shore’s picturesque Hanalei Bay. The drive into the town has views of imposing mountain, formed by now-dormant volcanoes, with dramatic waterfalls carving a path down their slopes. It’s an arresting, exhilarating sight.
While the folk song Puff the Magic Dragon has been appropriated by stoners the world over, residents of Kauai’s beachside haven Hanalei have adopted the tune as their own. With lyrics about a land called Honalee, and the coastal landscape along the bay resembling a sleeping dragon, the song’s lyricist Leonard Lipton agrees, writing on his blog in 2009 that Hanalei is “obviously Puff’s home”.
Fittingly, the town has a loose, laid-back beachy vibe, and because it is relatively undeveloped, you’re best off booking a holiday rental rather than a hotel. It’s not cheap, with the average Airbnb property going for around AUD$350 per night, but the upside is that there’s a kitchen, so there’s no need to eat out at every meal.
POKE, MAN
Hanalei is full of cute little eateries that dot the main road, and a farmer’s market every Saturday. Start your day with day at Hanalei Bread Company; it’s usually very busy, but has the best coffee in town. Head to Tropical Taco for fish tacos, and trying Hawaiian poke (I ask a local how to pronounce it and she tells me: “poh-kay”) is a must — the best can be found at the back of the Dolphin restaurant in their tiny fish market.
SURF’S UP
Hanalei’s 3km long beach is bordered by reef, ideal for hitting the breaks from October to March. The beachside town was also home to late surfer Andy Irons, and locals have created a number of mural in tribute to the champion, who passed away in 2010. His widow Lyndie and their young son Axel still have a home by the beach. Incredibly, one afternoon during my stay, I spot them both in the small surf next to me, and Lyndie exclaims that her son just caught his first wave on his own. I watch him carve up the surf in wonder — a pro in the making.
Otherwise, the bay is the spot to paddle board, snorkel or kayak. The southern end of the beach is where the Hanalei River meets the sea, and you can rent kayaks in town to take you inland into a bird sanctuary, best accessed from the water.
There are a couple of other beaches in the area worth exploring too; drive north to check out Tunnels and the Ke’e State Beach Park.
NA PALI COAST
The magic of Kauai is in its natural wonders — whether it’s the tiny lizards that laze in the sun, the exotic birdlife, the majestic Waimea Canyon, or the imposing mountains, which seem to vibrate with so many shades of green. A trip to the Na Pali Coast, which is not accessible via road, is a must — whether you do a day hike, starting in the Ke’e State Beach Park, a kayaking trip with an overnight stay, or a sunset cruise by boat.
I choose the latter, and the boat tour includes commentary from a local who explains his ancestors used to live in the spectacular coastal lands now reserved as a State Park.
He then points out the areas that have been used as a backdrop for films. Its unspoilt natural beauty also means Kauai has served as a location for many a movie, including the original Jurassic Park and reboot Jurassic World. It’s also played a starring role in films from the classic South Pacific to cult favourite Tropic Thunder. The area’s peaks, formed by volcanoes, are perpetually shrouded in a tropical mist, which feeds dramatic waterfalls that drop into the ocean; there are rainbows everywhere you look.
And in real life, the enchanting, untamed island of Kauai is so much more beautiful than anything Hollywood can capture on the big screen.