Any journalist will tell you that a well-fed cameraman is a happy cameraman — but the words "Russian cuisine" don't tend to inspire a sudden appetite for dinner.

Before this ABC assignment to Russia, my idea of Russian food was a variety of potato dishes served in a variety of ways.

Mashed potato, boiled potato, potato dumplings, potato in soup.

I could imagine Russian cooks listing the varieties like "Bubba" in Forrest Gump did for his beloved shrimp.

You can barbecue it, boil it, broil it, bake it, saute it, you name it.

The Russia in my mind was a product of history lessons focusing on the Soviet Union and communist rule and I was expecting food that matched that era.

The country's traditional cuisine has been looked down on over the decades — even a Michelin star has been beyond its reach.

But that could change if the current food scene is any indication.

'An enjoyable education'

Eating in Moscow was an enjoyable education.

Ironically, it was Russia's decision in 2014 to ban imported food from countries that supported Ukraine-related sanctions against it that enlivened the restaurant scene.

Patriots rejoiced when they were told they could only buy local ingredients or food from "friendly" countries.

And chefs had to work on new menus.

This dish can be made with either chicken or beef.

Georgian food remains popular in Russia and one of the first meals was Chkmeruli Georgian fried chicken with creamy garlic sauce.

There is a strong focus on barley and buckwheat-based dishes as a platform for meats like chicken, veal, beef and seafood mixed with Georgian spices.

Khinkali meat dumplings are a staple of Georgian cuisine.

Khinkali meat dumplings are a staple of Georgian cuisine, with their thick dough wrap, served with a helping of sour cream.

The dough is often fashioned into a holder or grip for eating with your hands.

That bit of pinched dough is meant to be left on your plate uneaten … something I only learned much later.

Restaurants relish despite restrictions

The expansion in the restaurant scene has come at a rapid pace.

At the top of Europe's second tallest building you'll find Ruski — a new venture from Russian chef Anton Kovalkov, who brings together modern Russian food in Moscow's most modern district.

This is pickled herring, served with black bread and forshmak (minced fish) and black bread.

Restaurants like Lavkalavka have embraced the farm-to-table ethos forced on them by the sanctions.

They grow and produce their own ingredients and both their food and wine menus feature entirely Russian-only options.

In Moscow city at least, there's a certain pride in the ability of restaurateurs to adapt to a new political environment.