"It's really more like dinner food," says the nine-year-old co-reviewer with terrifying precocity, cutting straight to the heart of Melbourne's upwardly mobile cafe scene. Breakfast is the new dinner and that means we now expect to wake up over vibrantly composed plates of textural, multi-elemental loveliness rather than a couple of eggs slapped on toast. That's certainly the guiding philosophy of chef Ritchie Boucher (formerly head chef at Oakridge winery in the Yarra Valley) who brings mac 'n' cheese into the pre-midday fold with oozy croquettes, a poached egg and paprika-dusted smoked cauliflower, a virtuous-yet-tasty kale hummus and nicely acidic turmeric mayo. Gnocchi also takes a breakfast spin, the pillowy carbs keeping good company with mushrooms, goat's curd and garlic butter and lavished with a fried egg. One kvetch: decorative greenery turns up on everything – even the fat sticky date hotcakes with jaffa ice-cream and warm caramel sauce.

The brew

Padre beans make a lusciously smooth latte – the Daddy's Girl blend, with Saint David Dairy milk, is rich and sweet. They also have a single origin that changes every few weeks and serve up cold drip and filter. The smoothie game isn't as strong: a spinach, banana and pineapple number with almond milk (or mylk, if we're to assent to the menu's political will) leaves a lasting impression of well-meaning green ice.

The booze

It's early days, people. While the lettering on the window says Cafe-Food-Bar, there are a few beers on the list and a few wines (a Heathcote shiraz; a Yarra Valley pinot gris) recited by the waiter. More to come in the near future, they say.

Address 468 High Street, Northcote, 0421 748 077, fieldblack.com.au

Open Tue-Sun 7am-4pm

Avo index Playing a strong game. It also gets a toasty wedge of pan-fried haloumi and chilli jam on pumpkin bread. Nix the pea shoots and we're happy as Larry. $17.50.

Caffe latte $4

Loving The cute dog-friendly courtyard out back.

Not getting All the decorative pea sprouts. The food doesn't need it.

Overheard "Do we really have to go to Aldi after this?"

Score Two cups
Food 8/10 Coffee 4/5 Atmosphere 4/5